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Beanie knitting pattern

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Beanie knitting pattern

 

Skills:

The Beanie is knit in the round, with a ribbed edge and  the rest stockinette stitch. For this pattern you should be familiar with: 

  • casting on,
  • knitting & purling,
  • switching to a new ball of yarn.

This tutorial teaches: 

  • closing the circle,
  • knitting through the back loop,
  • knit 2 together. 

Some experience with knitting in the round is convenient, but not necessary. 

Do you know how to do all these things already? Then skip straight to the quickstart pattern!

 

Required materials:

 

Size:

One size fits (almost) all grown-ups and teenagers.

 

CONTENTS / go straight to:

About this project

I.   QUICKSTART PATTERN

II.  CLOSING THE CIRCLE

III. KNITTING THE BEANIE

- Ribbing

- Knitting on

- Decreasing

 

About this project

This is a pattern for a nice and basic, no nonsense hat. As so often, you can tailor it to your own wishes and designs with a few minor alterations. For starters you can of course choose different colours, but you can also add 1 or 2 colours, knit stripes or add a pompom.

I chose 2 matching colours: Driftwood and Shipwrecked. These colours are "siblings", I like the subtlety of this combination. But the Beanie would also look great in matching contrasting colours, such as Odette for the edge and Candy for the rest.

The Beanie is knit on circular needles 4 mm, length at least 60 cm. The pattern is suitable for pretty much any yarn that matches those needles, as long as it's a stretchy yarn. Cotton will not be suitable, most wool probably will be.

Supertwist DK is, in my opinion, an ideal yarn for a hat or beanie. Not only because it's soft and warm, but it's very squishy and stretchy. Besides, it's made in an animal friendly, environmentally friendly and socially concious way - and for me that is a must where DIY materials are concerned!

 

Chapter I

Quickstart Pattern

If you already know the required techniques for this project, you don't need the tutorial. 

Go ahead with this Quickstart Pattern! 

Carefully cut open a skein of yarn and twist a ball from the skein. (Knitting from the skein is possible - in theory. In practise, it is not. You'll soon end up with a hopelessly tangles mess. Besides, you'll get a first sense of the yarn and the tension when you're twisting the ball.) 

1. Loosely cast on 109 stitches with Driftwood and circular knitting needles 4 mm. Close the circle and mark the start of your row with a stitch marker. 

TIP: Make sure this one stitch marker looks different than the others. So later, when your needle is full of stitch markers, you can recognise the start of your row. Use a different type of stitch marker or tie a piece of spare yarn to it. 

2. Knit 1 through the back loop, purl 1, until the edge measures approx. 6 to 7 cm. 

3. Switch to the colour Shipwrecked at the start of a new row and continue knitting in stockinette stitch (knit all stitches - normally, not through the back loop). 

4. Continue until the work measures approx. 14 to 15 cm in length (edge + stockinette together).

Now it's time to start decreasing. You'll alternate one row of decreases with one row of normal knitting. The stitch markers will be used as "flags" to announce there's a decrease coming up. The number of stitches in between the markers will become less and less. 

Start decreasing at the beginning of a new row.

5. Knit 7, knit 2 together, place stitch marker. Repeat until the end of the row. 

6. The next row: knit all stitches. No decreasing. Just pop each stitch marker over to the other needle when you reach it.

7. The next row is a row of decreases again. Knit 6, knit 2 together, repeat until the end of the row. 

8. The next row, again knit all stitches. 

9. The next row is a row of decreases again. Knit 5, knit 2 together, repeat until the end of the row. 

10. Repeat this pattern (decreasing in the one row and knitting all stitches in the other, while the number of stitches between the marker gets less and less) until you have 24 stitches left.

You can now remove the stitch markers. (Or maybe you already got fed up with them earlier. If you can pinpoint your decreases by counting and looking, so much the better.) 

11. The last row, knit 2 together the entire row. You now have 12 stitches left. 

12. Cut off the yarn at approx. 15 cm and thread it through the wool needle. Pull the wool needle through these last 12 stitches and let the stitches slide off your knitting needle.

13. Carefully pull on the yarn, tightening the tip of your Beanie. It's best if you tighten each of the 12 stitches separately first, and then pull the yarn to tighten the whole.

14. Tie a knot and weave in the loose end on the inside of the Beanie. Weave in the other loose ends too. 

CONGRATULATIONS! Your Beanie is finished and ready to use!

 

Chapter 2

CLOSING THE CIRCLE

To be able to knit in the round, it is of course necessary to connect the start and finish of your cast on stitches. 

This method makes a nice closure. It can be used for all sorts of circular knitting. When using this method, remember to always cast on 1 extra stitch. This extra stitch is lost when closing the circle.

For example: the Beanie has 108 stitches per row. So you cast on 109 stitches. 

 

  • Cast on 109 stitches.

cirkel sluiten 1

Make sure that the stitches aren’t twisted around the circular needle.

All stitches should be "bottom down" around the needle. Scan the entire needle to double check if they have twisted around it somewhere. 

  • Slip the first stitch purlwise.
    Step 1: Insert the right hand knitting needle purlwise (from back to front) into the first stitch on the left hand needle:

cirkel sluiten 2

 

  • Step 2: Move this stitch onto the right hand knitting needle:

cirkel sluiten 3

 

  • Now insert the left hand knitting needle into the 2nd stitch on the right hand knitting needle: 

cirkel sluiten 4

 

  • Lift this stitch over the first stitch (the one that you just slipped purlwise)…

cirkel sluiten 5

 

  • …and let it slip off the left hand knitting needle.

cirkel sluiten 6

The stitch (marked with the arrow) is now “wrapped around” the slipped stitch. 

 

  • Pop on a stitchmarker to mark the start of your row.

cirkel sluiten 7

 

TIP: Make sure this one stitch marker looks different than the others. So later, when your needle is full of stitch markers, you can recognise the start of your row. Use a different type of stitch marker or tie a piece of spare yarn to it. 

Later on, you'll see that I used a piece of elastic to "mark my marker".

 

Ready, steady? Now it's time to start knitting!

 

Chapter 3

KNITTING THE BEANIE

 

Ribbing

TIP: check out our tutorials on continental knitting and purling. It's much more convenient when knitting in the round, especially for ribbing!

Ribbing creates a nice edge for the beanie. This ribbing is done by alternatively knitting 1 and purling 1 stitch.

If you knit each knit stitch through the back loop, the ribbing will be more pronounced and elastic. 

So if you like to do this, here’s how you knit through the back loop:

 

Knitting through the back loop

This might sound complicated, but it’s very much the same as the normal knit stitch.  

  • The normal knit stitch: Normally you’d insert the right hand needle from front to back, in between the ‘right leg’ and ‘left leg’ of the stitch: 

normale rechte steek

 

  • To knit through the back loop: Insert the needle as it were from behind the ‘left leg’ of the stitch:

gedraaid recht breien

 

  • Wrap the yarn and pull through as usual. 

When you knit through the back loop, the stitches are as it were twisted. This makes them show more clearly in ribbing and adds extra elasticity.

  • Now that you have knit the first stitch (through the back loop or not, as you prefer), bring the yarn to the front of the work and purl the next stitch.
  • Then move the yarn to the back again and knit the next stitch (through the back loop).
  • Etc.

 

Continue this way, ending with a purl 1, until you reach the stitch marker. You have now knit 1 row.  

Just move the stitch marker from the left needle to the right needle and continue knitting. If 

Continue until the edge measures approx 6 to 7 cm. 

 

boordje

A piece of knit 1 - purl 1 ribbing (here in the colour Odette). The knit stitches are knit through the back loop. 

 

Knitting on

When the edge has reached the desired length, move on to stockinette stitch. 

On straight needles, this would mean knitting one row and purling the next. Because you're working on the same side all the time when knitting in the round, you don't have to purl. For stockinette stitch you knit all stitches. 

Remember: When knitting in the round, you knit all stitches, each row, for a stockinette stitch. No purling.

At the start of a new row, switch to the colour Shipwrecked and continue in stockinette stitch (knit all stitches - normally, not through the back loop). 

Continue until the work (including the edge) measures approx. 14 to 15 cm. 

Start the decreasing at the beginning of a new row. 

 

Decreasing

Now it's time to start decreasing. You'll alternate a row of decreases with a row of normal knitting. The stitch markers will be used as "flags" to announce there's a decrease coming up. The number of stitches in between the markers will become less and less. 

So don't forget to knit a "normal" row after each row of decreasing!

No sweat, you can do this! Just follow these steps and you'll soon recognise what your hands are doing:

  • Start at a new row, which you can recognise by its "festive" stitch marker. Counting from this marker, knit 7 stitches: 

Beanie breien 1

 

  • Now knit 2 together. 
    Step 1. Insert the right hand knitting needle into 2 stitches at the same time:

Beanie breien 2

 

  • Knit 2 together.
    Step 2. Wrap the yarn and pull through both stitches.

Beanie breien 3

 

  • Pop on a stitch marker:

Beanie breien 4

 

  • Repeat until the end of the row. So keep repeating: knit 7, knit 2 together, place stitch marker. 
  • Here the end of the row approaches, see my "special" stitch marker? Knit the last 2 stitches together and you've done your first row of decreasing. 

Beanie breien 5

 

  • The work now looks like this: 

Beanie breien 6

12 stitch markers, one of which shows the start of a new row. There are 8 stitches in between each marker. 

 

  • Next row: knit all stitches, do not decrease. 
  • Then the next row is a decreasing row again. 
  • Knit 6. In front of the stitch marker there are now 2 stitches: 

Beanie breien 7

 

  • Knit these 2 together:

Beanie breien 8

 

  • Repeat this the entire row: knit 6, knit 2 together. 
  • There are now 7 stitches in between each marker.
  • The next row, knit all stitches, no decreasing. (Promise you won't forget...) 

When your circular needle gets too long, you can simply pull the cable between the stitches.
Continue knitting for a bit, move all stitches back together on the cable, and pull the cable through the middle again. Now you can knit on for a bit. And so on.

Beanie breien 9

 

  • Did you knit the previous row normally, without decreasing...? (OK I'll stop nagging about it now.)
  • Then it's time for another row of decreases. 
  • Knit 5, knit 2 together. Repeat until the end of the row. 
  • Knit one row normally, without decreasing.
  • Keep repeating this pattern: one row decreasing, one row normal knitting - the number of stitches in between the markers gradually gets less. 

The less stitches you have on your needle, the more often you'll have to "smallify" your needle by pulling the cable in between the stitches.
At some point, it will be most convenient to pull the cable out on both sides, creating a triangle. Knit a couple of stitches, move them all back on the cable and divide again. 

Beanie breien 10

So it's not necessary to purchase a shorter cable. It's not even useful - when at the end you have only a couple of stitches left on your needle, you will have to knit like this anyway.

 

  • Repeat this pattern until there are 24 stitches left on your needle. 
  • You can now remove the stitch markers. (Or perhaps you grew tired of them already, it's fine if you have already removed them. If you know when to decrease by counting and looking, so much the better!) 
  • The last row, knit 2 together all stitches: 

Beanie breien 11

 

  • You've now got 12 stitches left on your needle:

Beanie breien 12

 

  • Cut off the yarn at 15 cm and thread it through the wool needle. Carefully move the stitches from the knitting needle to the wool needle: 

Beanie breien 13

 

  • Weave the wool needle through all 12 stitches that you had left and let the stitches slip off the knitting needle: 

Beanie breien 14

 

  • The last 4 stitches on your right hand knitting needle will have to be inserted from back to front in one go: 

Beanie breien 15

 

  • The tip of your Beanie is now free of the knitting needle. The stitches are resting on the loose end of yarn. Now tighten the stitches, preferably one by one. 

Beanie breien 16

 

  • Ta-daaah, that's nice and tight:

Beanie breien 17

 

  • Weave the yarn through one or two stitches again for good measure, tie a knot and weave the loose end away on the inside of the Beanie. 

Beanie breien 18

 

  • Finally weave in the other loose ends on the inside of your Beanie. 

CONGRATULATIONS! Your Beanie is finished and ready to use!

 

Did you enjoy this? I sure hope you did! 

Are you happy? I'll dance a jig!

Do you have suggestions? I'd love to hear them.

Are you unhappy? I'll fix it!

You now have the skills and experience to knit an actual hat. You can put these new skills to work on lots of other (circular) knitting projects! 

I am very interested to hear your opinion regarding this project, the yarn and the tutorial. Your feedback helps us to improve. I would very much appreciate it if you would share your experience in our online guestbook. Of course you can also share your thoughts via hallo @ yarnz . nl  

I’d love to hear from you!

 

 

 

 

 

Michèle Tewes.

Yarnz. Start Crafting.

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