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Cowl and Wrist Warmers knitting pattern

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Cowl and Wrist Warmers knitting pattern

 

You'd rather crochet? No problem!

 

Add a splash of colour and warmth to the cold, grey days.

 

Skills:

The Cowl and Wrist Warmers are knit in a knit 2 - purl 2 ribbing pattern. For this project you will be:

  • casting on,
  • knitting & purling,
  • switching to a new ball of yarn,
  • casting off,
  • darning or sewing the edges together.

The tutorial in this pattern focuses on the real novices. All these techniques are explained step by step. You can learn to knit with this project. 

Do you already know how to knit? Then move straight on to the Quickstart Pattern!

 

Required materials:

 

Size:

One size fits (almost) all. The wrist warmers are approx. 17 cm in length. The cowl is approx. 25 cm wide and 17 cm high. 

 

CONTENTS / go straight to:

About this project

I.   QUICKSTART PATTERN

II.  CASTING ON

III. KNITTING

- The knit stitch

- The purl stitch

IV. LET'S START KNITTING

- Knitting the Wrist Warmers

- Darning

- Knitting the Cowl

- Switching to a new ball

- Knitting on

V.  CASTING OFF

 

About this project

This set knits up quick & easy. The merino wool Supertwist DK is hand dyed and animal friendly. It's a very soft and squishy yarn - ideal for a project like this and delightful to knit with.

An excellent project to learn to knit with, as well as a fun quick project for the more advanced knitter. Both the cowl and the wrist warmers are knit in a simple ribbed pattern. This makes them both stretchy and warm. 

The handdyed colours match each other nicely. Each plain colour has a matching, flecked sibling. I used two skeins of the plain colour for the cowl and one skein of the speckled match for the wrist warmers.

 

Chapter I

QUICKSTART PATTERN

Carefully cut open a skein of wool and twist it into a ball. (Knitting straight from the skein is possible in theory, but will quickly result in a sad mess. Besides, twisting the ball will give you a feel for the yarn and its tension.) 

Tip: slip each first stitch, instead of knitting it. This will make darning or sewing easier. 

Knitting the Wristwarmers

  1. Loosely cast on 38 stitches.

  2. Knit 3, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, end with knit 3.

  3. Repeat step 2 until your knitting measures approx. 17 cm. 

  4. Cast off and cut the yarn at approx. 30 cm. 

  5. Use the remaining loose threads at the start and finish of your knitting to sew or darn the edges together. Sew the long edges – the sides – together to create a tube. Sew top down approx. 5 cm. Sew bottom up approx. 8 cm. This will leave a hole of approx. 5 cm for the thumb. Weave in the remaining loose ends on the inside.

  6. Knit another wristwarmer the same way. There is no difference between left and right. 

Knitting the Cowl

  1. Loosely cast on 130 stitches.

  2. Knit 3* purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, end with knit 3.

  3. Repeat step 2 until your knitting measures approx. 17 cm. 

  4. Cast off and cut the yarn at approx. 50 cm. 

  5. Use this thread to sew or darn the short sides together to turn the flat patch into a circle. 

  6. Weave in the remaining loose threads on the inside.

 

Chapter II

CASTING ON

Please note! It’s very important that you cast on very loosely. Better too loose than too tight. 

Always first wind your skein into a ball, before you start casting on or knitting. 

Tip: carefully shake the skein loose and hang it onto a chair (or around the hands of a helpful assistant). This makes it easier to pry the yarn loose when winding the ball.

Unwind the ball of yarn so that you have a thread of approx. 50 cm.

  • Wind the yarn around two fingers. Wind over the two fingers again to the back of the first thread. This makes a “cracknel” shape as shown in the image. You can also shape the yarn this way on the table in front of you.

 

  • Use a knitting needle to pull the back thread through the front one to form a loop:

 

  • Pull gently on the end to shape the first loop:

 

  • Hold the knitting needle in the right hand. Wind the loose end of the yarn around the left thumb from front to back:

 

  • Insert the knitting needle between the yarn and the thumb:

 

  • Wind the yarn on the ‘ball end’ around the needle from back to front:

 

  • Pull the loop through to make another stitch:

 

Keep it nice and loose!

  • Remove your left thumb and gently pull to secure the stitch:

 

There are now two stitches on your needle. For this project it’s very important that the cast on stitches are big and loose. They should look like they’re a bit too big for the needle. 

Repeat this until you have on your right hand needle: 

  • For the wrist warmers: 38 stitches
  • For the cowl: 130 stitches

So! Ready to start knitting?

 

Chapter III

KNTTING

For this project, you need to alternate between knit and purl stitches. 

First, I’ll explain the knit stitch and the purl stitch. In Chapter IV it all comes together in knitting the Cowl and wrist warmers.

 

The knit stitch

Tip: there are 2 ways to hold the needles and the working yarn. Please check the knitting tutorial for this. 

  • Take the knitting needle with the cast on stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand.
  • Insert the right hand knitting needle from front to back through the first stitch on the left hand knitting needle:

 

  • Take the yarn in your right hand. Make sure you’ve got the yarn that’s attached to the ball. 
  • Wind the yarn over the right hand knitting needle:

 

  • With your right hand knitting needle, pull through a loop:

 

You have knit a stitch! Your new stitch is on the right hand knitting needle, but still stuck to the old stitch on your left hand knitting needle. 

  • Carefully slip the original stitch off the left hand knitting needle: 

 

 

The purl stitch

Tip: there are 2 ways to hold the needle and working yarn. Please check the purling tutorial for this.

When you purl a stitch, it’s sort of back to front. One can make endless patterns and variations by alternating knit and purl stitches.

When purling, the yarn will be on the other side of the work, on ‘your’ side as it were.

  • With the working yarn at your side of the knitting, insert the right hand needle from right to left through the front of the first stitch on the left hand knitting needle.

 

  • Wind the yarn around the right hand knitting needle, from right to left:

 

  • Draw a loop through:

 

  • You have made a purl stitch! Just as before, the new stitch is still stuck to your left hand knitting needle, via the original first stitch. Carefully slip the original stitch off the left hand knitting needle:

 

 

Chapter IV

LET'S START KNITTING

The cowl and wrist warmers are knit in a ribbing pattern. This means that you alternate between knit and purl stitches during each row. In this case, the basic ribbing pattern is 2 knit stitches and 2 purl stitches. 

Ribbing makes for very stretchy knitting – ideal for things like wristwarmers or loose cowls. 

Knitting the Wrist Warmers

  1. Unwind approx. 75 cm of yarn and cast on 38 stitches.
    PLEASE NOTE: the edge must be very elastic, so make sure to cast on very loosely. Make sure that you have approx. 20 cm of yarn left, for darning later on.

  2. Knit the first 3 stitches. 

  3. Take the yarn between the needles from the back to the front (‘your’ side) of your knitting. So that’s in between the 3rd stitch on your right hand needle and the next stitch on your left hand needle. Gently pull the yarn.

  4. Now purl 2 stitches. 

  5. Again take the yarn between the needles to the other side of your knitting, to the “back” this time. Now that’s right in between the 5th stitch on your right hand needle and the next stitch on your left hand needle. Gently pull the yarn.

  6. Knit 2 stitches and again take the yarn in between the needles to the front. Pull gently. 

  7. Purl 2 stitches and again take the yarn in between the needles to the back. Pull gently. 

  8. You have now knit stitches. Keep going, alternating between knit 2 and purl 2 until you’re almost at the end of your needle. 

  9. After the last knit 2 you should have 3 stitches left on your left hand needle. 

  10. Purl these last 3 stitches. 

Swap your needles, so that your right hand needle is empty again and you knitting is in your left hand.  

  • Row 2 and all next rows are knit in the same way.
  • You start each row with knit 3. Then purl 2knit 2, etc. You end each row with purl 3. 

Tip: Slip the very first stitch of each row, instead of knitting it. This will make darning or sewing easier. 
You do this by inserting the right hand needle in the same way as you would to knit the stitch. Only now you don’t wrap the yarn around, you don’t do anything with the yarn. Just insert the needle and slip the stitch from the left needle to the right, without knitting it. 
Knit the next stitch as usual, and the stitch after that. Purl the next 2 stitches, then knit 2, purl 2, etc. 
The very first stitches of each row will stretch a bit. This results in bigger loops on each side of your knitting, making darning easier. De eerste steek van iedere naald zullen wat uitrekken. 

  • Continue until your knitting measures approx. 17 cm. 

  • Cast off. (See Chapter V Casting off) Cut off the yarn at approx. 30 cm.

  • Knit another wrist warmer in the same way.

     

Here you’ll find how you can magic your flat patches into wrist warmers: 

Darning

By darning you can make an almost invisible seam. If you find this too difficult, you can of course use a regular sewing stitch of your choice. 

Choose which side you like best. Put the patch down in front of you, with the best side (or “right side”) down and the longest of the loose threads at the bottom. Insert this thread into your wool needle. 

  • The thread is already attached to one side. Weave the yarn through the bottom of the stitch on the other side and back through the point where it is attached. 
  • If you do this in an “8-shape”, the points will match up best. 

 

If you stretch out your knitting somewhat, you’ll see that there are connecting threads in between the “v-shapes”.  For darning, you each time insert your wool needle behind this connecting thread, in between the first and second stitch. If you have slipped each first stitch, these will be a bit bigger than the rest. 

  • Stick your wool needle behind the connecting thread next to the first “v-shape” on the opposite side and pull the thread through. Don’t pull too tightly.

 

  • Then insert your needle underneath the connecting thread on the other side and pull your thread through. And so on, this way you “climb” up. 

The first “v-shapes” will disappear on the inside of the seam. 

 

  • Continue this way until you have darned approx. 8 cm. of the edges together.

 

  • Turn the wrist warmer inside out and weave the remaining yarn in along the seam.
    You might want to make a small knot to tighten the whole. 

 

  • Turn the wrist warmer back to “outside out”. 
  • Now do the same from the top of the wrist warmer downwards. 
  • Darn approx. 5 cm of the edges together.

 

  • After 5 cm – there will be a hole left of approx. 5cm for the thumb – turn the wrist warmer inside out again. 
  • Weave the loose thread in again along the seam. 

 

Knitting the Cowl

The Cowl is knit according to the same pattern as the wrist warmers. You knit it from bottom to top and then sew the edges together. 

You’ll need 2 skeins of Supertwist for the Cowl, so you’ll have to switch to a new ball of yarn halfway through. No sweat, on the next page you’ll learn how if you don’t know. 

  1. Unwind approx. 2 meters of yarn and cast on 130 stitches. PLEASE NOTE: the edge should be very stretchy, so cast on loosely.
  2. Knit 3, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, etc until the end of the row. End with purl 3
  3. Repeat step 2 until you’re almost out of yarn.  

 

Intermezzo 

Switching to a new ball of yarn​

It’s important that you switch at the start of a new row, so the loose ends can be weaved in almost invisibly. You can decide to switch halfway through the row, but this is unwise unless you can weave in your loose ends very neatly. If you can’t, play safe and start at the beginning of the row.

Make sure you have enough yarn left when starting on a new row. If you have at least 5 m of yarn left, you can start on a last row before switching. 

  • Knit your last row with the old yarn and twist your 2nd skein into a ball.
  • Unwind approx. 10 cm from your new ball of yarn. 
  • Tie the new yarn to the old thread, as closely to the knitting as possible. Use a simple knot that can be easily undone later on.

Tip: When you have long threads dangling from your knitting, things might get tangled. If you like, you can cut off the loose ends of yarn at approx. 10 cm. Make sure you don’t cut the yarn on the ‘ball-end’, though!
Continue knitting with your new ball of yarn. Make sure you get the right thread when you continue! 

  • Continue knitting with your new ball of yarn. Make sure you get the right thread when you continue! 

 

Knitting on

  1. Continue knitting in the ribbed pattern until your patch measures approx. 17 cm. 
  2. Cast off (see Ch V Casting Off.) Cut off the yarn at approx. 50 cm. 
  3. Use this remaining thread to sew or darn the edges together. You can darn the same way as described for the wrist warmers. Obviously you can darn straight on to the end, a hole for the thumb is not needed here. 
  4. Weave in the remaining loose ends on the inside of your Cowl.

 

Chapter V

CASTING OFF

Casting off is done at the end of the knitting. This secures the stitches so your beautiful knitting is safe and will not unravel. 

It’s very important to cast off very loosely. The stitches should be bigger than usual. If you cast off too tightly, the edge of your knitting may not stretch enough or may look narrower than the rest of your knitting. Not pretty.

  • Start with a new row, so your right hand needle is empty and your left hand needle holds the knitting. 
  • To make it easier, knit all stitches and do not purl when casting off.
  • Knit the first two stitches, only extra loose. So pull a bit more yarn through when making the stitch. Give it some slack.
  • Using the left hand knitting needle, lift the first stitch (the one on the right) over the second stitch.
  • Drop the first stitch from your left hand knitting needle. 

casting off

 

 

  • ​There’s now only 1 stitch left on your right hand knitting needle. Knit the next stitch on your left hand needle. There are 2 stitches on your right hand needle again.  
  • Again lift the right stitch on the right hand needle over the left stitch, and drop it off the left hand knitting needle. 
  • Repeat until you have cast off all stitches but one and there’s only 1 stitch left on your right hand knitting needle. Cut off the yarn at approx. 30 cm for the wrist warmers or 50 cm for the cowl. Pull this thread through the last stitch. Drop the last stitch from your knitting needle and gently pull tight. 

Finally, you use the loose threads to sew or darn the edges together, as described above.  

 

CONGRATULATIONS! Your Cowl & Wrist Warmers are finished and ready to use!

 

Did you enjoy this? I sure hope you did! 

Working on this project, you have practiced important knitting skills. Knitting and purling are the basis of many projects.

I am very interested to hear your opinion regarding this project, the yarn and the tutorial. Your feedback helps us to improve. Therefore I would very much appreciate it if you would share your experience in our online guestbook. Of course you can also share your thoughts via hallo @ yarnz . nl  

I’d love to hear from you!

 

 

 

 

Michèle Tewes.

Yarnz. Start Crafting.

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