Navigation

Cowl and Wrist Warmers crochet pattern

Vorige Item 14 of 20 Volgende

Cowl and Wrist Warmers crochet pattern

 

You'd rather knit? No problem!

 

Add a splash of colour and warmth to the cold, grey days.

 

Skills:

The Cowl and Wrist Warmers are crocheted with the double crochet stitch (US term: single crochet). For this project you need the following stitches and techniques:

  • chain stitches,
  • double crochet (US: single crochet) stitches,
  • switching to a new ball of yarn,
  • darning or sewing the edges together.

The tutorial in this pattern focuses on the real novices. All these techniques are explained step by step. You can learn to crochet with this project. 

Do you already know how to crochet? Then move straight on to the Quickstart Pattern!

 

Required materials:

 

Size:

One size fits (almost) all. The wrist warmers are approx. 21 cm in length. The Cowl is approx. 25 cm wide and 21 cm high. 

 

CONTENTS / go straight to

About this project

I.   QUICKSTART PATTERN

- Crocheting the wrist warmers
- Crocheting the cowl

II.  THE BASICS

- Chain stitches (making the base chain)
- Double crochet stitches

III. LET'S DO THIS

- Crocheting the wrist warmers
- Finishing the wrist warmers
- Crocheting the cowl
- Switching to a new ball of yarn
- Finishing the cowl

 

About this project

This set works up quick & easy. The merino wool Supertwist DK is hand dyed and animal friendly. It's a very soft and squishy yarn - ideal for a project like this and delightful to crochet with.

An excellent project to learn to crochet with, as well as a fun quick project for the more advanced crocheter.

Both the cowl and the wrist warmers are worked in a simple pattern, using double crochet stitches (US: single crochet). This makes them both stretchy and warm.

The handdyed colours match each other nicely. Each plain colour has a matching, flecked sibling.

I used two skeins of the plain colour for the cowl and two skeins of the speckled match for the wrist warmers.

 

Chapter I

QUICKSTART PATTERN

Please note: by double crochet stitch I mean the UK term. The US term would be single crochet. If you’re used to US terms, please read “single crochet” where I write double crochet.

If you already know how to crochet, you can start here right away. 

For this project, you only need to double crochet stitches. In order to get it nice and stretchy – like the knitted ribbed pattern – you don’t work underneath each stitch, but into the “v-shape”. 

 

Crocheting the wrist warmers

Twist a ball of one of the speckled Supertwist skeins.

  • Make a base chain of approx. 40 chain stitches. If you want to make the wrist warmers a bit longer, add a couple of chains. Please note: the edge should be stretchy, so keep it nice and loose!
  • Double crochet all stitches. Don’t crochet underneath the stitch. Instead, stick the hook into the “v-shape”, or the back “leg” of the stitch:

Crochet into the “v-shape” , instead of underneath it.

 

  • Crochet on until your patch is about square (21 cm long). Wrap it around your wrist to check if it’s long enough. It may be stretched somewhat tightly around your wrist, so it will fit snugly when finished.
  • Cut off the yarn at approx. 30 cm.
  • Use the remaining loose threads at the start and finish of your patch to sew or darn the edges together. Sew the bottom and top together. The ribbing will then be in a vertical direction on your wrist. 
  • Sew top down approx. 5 cm. Sew bottom up approx. 11 cm. This will leave a hole of approx. 5 cm for the thumb. Weave in the remaining loose ends on the inside

Crochet another wrist warmer the same way, with the second skein of speckled Supertwist. There is no difference between left and right. 

 

Crocheting the cowl

Twist a ball of one of the plain Supertwist skeins. The Cowl is basically made in the same way as the wrist warmers.

  • Make a loosely crocheted base chain of 40 chain stitches. 
  • Double crochet all stitches. Stick the hook into the “v-shape” of each stitch, instead of underneath it.
  • Crochet on until your patch measures approx. 50 cm in length. 
  • Cut off the yarn at approx. 50 cm. Use the remaining loose threads to sew or darn the bottom and top together. The ribbing will then be in a vertical direction. Weave in the remaining loose ends on the inside.

 

Chapter II

THE BASICS

Before you start

Please note: by double crochet stitch I mean the UK term. The US term would be single crochet. If you’re used to US terms, please read “single crochet” where I write double crochet.

Carefully cut open a skein of yarn and twist it into a ball. Crocheting straight from the skein will quickly result in a sad mess. Besides, twisting the ball will give you a feel for the yarn and its tension. 

Tip: carefully shake the skein loose and hang it onto a chair (or around the hands of a helpful assistant). This makes it easier to pry the yarn loose when winding the ball.

 

Chain stitches (making the base chain)

A chain stitch is a simple loop. Chain stitches are used to make a start with crocheting, by quite literally making a chain of stitches. They are also used at the end of each row, to make a start for the next row.

Pleaste note! It’s important that you don’t crochet the chain too tightly. Better too loose than too tight! 

The first stitch is made the same way as with knitting:

  • Wind the yarn around two fingers. Wind over the two fingers again to the back of the first thread. This makes a “cracknel” shape as shown in the image. You can also shape the yarn this way on the table in front of you.

 

 

  • Use the hook to pull the back thread through the front one to form a loop:

 

  • Pull gently on the end to shape the first loop:

 

Hold the crochet hook in your right hand and take the yarn (on the ball end, not the loose end) in your left hand. 

  • Wrap the yarn over the hook in an anticlockwise direction.
  • Draw the yarn through to form a new loop.  

crochet chain 1

 

 

  • You have now made a new loop, or “chained one”. Don’t pull too tightly!

crochet chain 2

 

By repeating these steps, you make a chain of stiches. You can count your chain stitches by counting the little “v”s.

This is how you count them:

 

Double crochet stitches

The double crochet stitch is one of the basic crochet stitches. The “normal” double crochet stitch is relatively sturdy and stiff.

You have crocheted a base chain of 40 chain stitches. It’s time to start the ‘real’ work.

  • Insert the hook into the 2nd chain from hook. Wrap the yarn anti-clockwise over the hook. 
  • Then draw the yarn through the stitch:

 

  • Again wrap the yarn anti-clockwise around the hook.
  • Pull the hook with yarn through both loops:

 

Repeat these steps. Stick the hook into each next stitch of the base chain and double crochet, until you have worked all stitches of the base chain.

Good to know: the first row is always difficult!

It’s quite hard to crochet into the base chain. You may have to wriggle and squirm a bit to get the hook in. This might mean that you’ve chained too tightly, so you could try again and make the chains somewhat bigger. But even then, working into chains is not easy! 

And you also have to pay attention that you’re not twisting the chain round while crocheting… 
Breathe in, breathe out...

So if you’re already fed up with crochet after only just beginning: you’re right! The first row is a bother! 
But fear not, after the first row, things will get much easier! 

 

III. LET'S DO THIS

Some patterns require that you alternate a lot between all kinds of stitches. For this set of Cowl and Wrist Warmers, you only have to work chain stitches and double crochet stitches. 

The double crochet is worked differently, though. Usually, a double crochet stitch is worked underneath the “v-shape” of the stitch below. Then it looks like this:

 

For this set, we want a nice and stretchy fabric. But the normal double crochet stitch isn’t very elastic. Therefore you alter the stitch slightly for this project. You stick the hook into the “v-shape” of the underlying stitch. This will result in a thicker and stretchier patch, comparable to the knitted ribbing pattern.

 

Crocheting the wrist warmers

  1. You have made a base chain of approx. 40 loosely worked chain stitches. If you want to make the wrist warmers a bit longer, add a couple of chains.

  2. Insert the hook into the 2nd chain and work a double crochet stitch. 

  3. Work a double crochet stitch into each next chain stitch, until you have reached the end (or: the beginning) of your base chain.

  4. Crochet 1 chain stitch at the end of the row. This chain gives you space to continue onwards and upwards.

  5. Turn the whole thing around from right to left. Take the yarn with it, behind the work. You can now crochet from right to left again. 

  6. Work your first double crochet of the new row into the 2nd stitch:

 

7.   Work each next double crochet stitch into the “v-shape” of the previous row:

 

8.    At the end of each row, crochet 1 chain stitch and turn the work around.

9.    Crochet on until your patch is about square (21 cm long), or until the desired length.

The “ribbing” will be in a vertical direction on your finished wrist warmer. You can check if your patch is long enough, by wrapping it around your wrist. The bottom (where you started with the base chain) should be able to touch the top (where you are crocheting now). It should fit snugly, but not too tight.

10.    Cut off the yarn at approx. 30 cm. Pull this thread through the last stitch. Drop the last stitch from your hook and gently pull tight.

 

Finishing the wrist warmers

Put the patch down in front of you, with the ribbing running vertical. The top and bottom are to the left and right. 

Use the remaining loose threads at the start and finish of your patch to sew or darn the edges together. Sew the bottom and top together, making a tube. 

Sew top down approx. 5 cm. Sew bottom up approx. 11 cm. This will leave a hole of approx. 5 cm for the thumb. 

Weave in the remaining loose ends into the seams on the inside.

Crochet another wrist warmer the same way, with the second skein of speckled Supertwist. There is no difference between left and right. 

CONGRATULATIONS! Your wrist warmers are finished and ready to use!

 

Crocheting the cowl

The cowl is made in pretty much the same way as the wrist warmers. Use the matching plain colours of Supertwist for the cowl..

  1. Crochet a base chain of approx. 40 loosely worked chain stitches. 
  2. Work a double crochet stitch into the 2nd chain and into each next chain. Chain I at the end of the row.
  3. Turn the patch, skip 1 stitch and work a double crochet stitch into each underlying stitch. Chain I at the end of the row.
  4. Repeat step 3 until you’re almost out of yarn. When you’re halfway, you’ll have to start on your second ball of yarn:

 

Switching to a new ball of yarn

Preferably start on a new ball of yarn at the beginning of a row. If you switch halfway, there’s a chance that the knot or yarn ends will remain visible. 

Tie the old yarn to the new, not too tightly, as closely to the patch as you can manage. Crochet on with your new yarn. Don’t worry about the knot, when finishing the cowl you can re-tie it neatly if necessary. 

Crochet on until your patch measures approx. 50 cm, measured from the bottom (the base chain) to the top (where you’re crocheting now).

Cut off the yarn at approx. 50 cm. Pull this thread through the last stitch. Drop the last stitch from your hook and gently pull tight.

 

Finishing the cowl

Finishing too is done in the same way as with the wrist warmers.

Put the patch down in front of you, with the ribbing running vertical. The top and bottom are to the left and right. 

Use the remaining loose thread to sew or darn the edges together. Sew the bottom and top together. Obviously you can work straight on to the end, a hole for the thumb is not needed here.

Weave in the remaining loose ends into the seams on the inside.

Check your knot to see if it’s nice and close to the stitches. If not, untie it (no fear, your crochet will not implode) and tie it again, as closely to the stitches as you can manage. Weave in these loose threads too, on the edge or inside of your cowl.

CONGRATULATIONS! Your cowl is finished and ready to use! 

 

Did you enjoy this? I sure hope you did! 

Are you happy? I'll dance a jig!

Do you have suggestions? I'd love to hear them.

Are you unhappy? I'll fix it!

Working on this project, you have practiced important crochet skills. I'd be very interested to hear your opinion regarding this project, the yarn and the tutorial. Your feedback helps us to improve. Therefore I would very much appreciate it if you would share your experience in our online guestbook. Of course you can also share your thoughts via hallo @ yarnz . nl  

I’d love to hear from you!

 

 

 

 

Michèle Tewes.

Yarnz. Start Crafting.

© 2015 - 2018 Yarnz | sitemap | rss | ecommerce software - powered by MyOnlineStore
This website uses cookies. Accept More information
What is a cookie ? A cookie is a small text file that is sent to your computer. When you visit a website Both this website and other parties may place cookies . What are cookies used for? This website uses cookies to improve . Ease of use and performance of the website Using cookies , we make sure to include that you do not always receive the same information when you visit our site or enter . Cookies make surfing the site so much more pleasant . There are different types of cookies . This website uses persistent cookies and session cookies. Permanent cookies : Allows the website can be set to your preferences. For example, to your consent to allow cookies to remember. As a result, you do not have to repeat so you save time and easily navigate through the online store . Your preferences Persistent cookies can be removed via the settings of your browser . Session cookies : Using a session cookie , we can see which parts of the website you have viewed this visit . We can therefore adapt to the surfing behavior of our visitors as possible. Webshop These cookies are automatically deleted when you close your browser . With the specific purpose of this Web site places cookies ? This web site places cookies for the following reasons : Shopping Cart ( functional cookie) : Remember what products are in your shopping cart. Without this cookie , you can order any products or in your shopping basket . Cookie selection ( functional cookie) : Remember that you have given to the placing of cookies our permission . Google Analytics ( tracking cookie ) : Measure how you use the website and how you found us and reports in attempt to gain insight here . Google AdWords ( tracking cookie ) : we measure how you use the website and how you found us. We use this knowledge to improve . Our AdWords campaigns Facebook ( Social Media cookie) : This cookie is possible to 'like' our Facebook page . This button works through code from Facebook itself originates . Twitter ( Social Media cookie) : This cookie is possible to follow our Twitter page . This button works through code that originates from Twitter itself . AddThis ( Social Media cookie) : This cookie is it possible to share via Facebook , Twitter , Hyves and various other social media websites our content . Affiliate marketing (marketing cookies) : We use these cookies to reward them for their contribution to the sales partner sites (affiliates , such Daisycon , TradeTracker and Cleafs ) . Review sites (marketing Cookies ): We like to be judged by customers . We use a review site such as The Feedback Company. These places cookies for proper operation . How can I manage or delete cookies ? Generally, cookies can be managed , edited and deleted by your browser . More information on and off , and cookies can be found in the instructions and / or using the help function of your browser .