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Wrapture Cowl crochet pattern

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Wrapture Cowl crochet pattern​

 

Learn to crochet the Linen Stitch for a soft Cowl or scarf.

 

Skills:

The Linen stitch pattern for this Cowl is made with chain stiches and double crochet stitches (US: single crochet). For this pattern you'll be working:

  • Chain stitches;
  • Double crochet stitches stitches.

The tutorial of this pattern focuses on beginners. How to crochet these stitches is explained step by step. This project is suitable to learn how to crochet.

Do you already know how to crochet? Then go straight to the Quickstart Pattern!

 

Required materials:

 

Size:

One size fits (almost) all. When flat, this Cowl is approx. 19 cm by 92 cm.

If you want to crochet a scarf instead of a cowl, I advise that you make it much longer. In that case, use at least 7 skeins of Supertwist DK.

 

CONTENTS / go straight to:

About this project

I.   QUICKSTART PATTERN

- Crocheting the Cowl

- Making the button holes

II.   THE BASICS

- Chain stitches (making the base chain)

- Double crochet stitches

III. LET'S DO THIS

- Crocheting the Linen Stitch

- Making the button holes

- Switching to a new ball of yarn

- Finishing the Cowl

 

About this project

Please note: by double crochet stitch I mean the UK term. The US term would be single crochet. If you’re used to US terms, please read “single crochet” where I write double crochet.

The Cowl is worked in the Linen Stitch. It sometimes goes by other names, depending on the book or website. And sometimes a stitch is called Linen Stitch, but worked differently. 

Whatever the stitch may be called, fort his Cowl I use the pattern in which you alternate 1 chain stitch and 1 double crochet stitch. This simple pattern is makes your work nice and flat, and supple. It has a calm look without being boring. The work looks like it is woven and it’s just that little bit different from the regular double crochet or treble stitch.

The basis is (chain 1, double crochet 1). 

I chose to add buttons, but that is of course up to you. You can also fix the Cowl with a Shawl pin. Or sew lots of tiny buttons on one edge, which you can peek through the stitches without making buttonholes. Or just sew the edges together, then you can’t open the Cowl anymore, but you can easily pull it over your head.

If you decide to crochet a “normal” scarf with this pattern, my advice is to use at least 7 skeins of Supertwist DK. You need to be able to wrap it nicely around your neck, so a scarf should be a lot longer. 

 

Chapter I

QUICKSTART PATTERN

If you already know how to crochet, you can start right away with this quickstart pattern. 

Please note: by double crochet stitch I mean the UK term. The US term would be single crochet. If you’re used to US terms, please read “single crochet” where I write double crochet.

 

Linnen steek

 

Crocheting the Cowl

Twist a ball from one skein of Supertwist.

  1. Make a base chain of 40 chain stitches.
  2. Double crochet 1 into the 4th chain (including the one on the hook).
  3. Chain 1.
  4. Skip one chain in the base chain and double crochet 1 into the next chain.
  5. Repeat step 3 and 4 until you have reached the end of the base chain.
  6. Chain 2 and turn the work.
  7. Skip the first double crochet stitch of the previous row. Double crochet 1 into the space underneath the chain of the previous row.
  8. Chain 1 and again double crochet into the space underneath the next chain of the previous row.
  9. Repeat step 8 until you have reached the end of the row. Don’t forget the last stitch at the end! The space at the end of the base chain (where you started in step 2) should also get a double crochet stitch.
  10. Check: you have worked 20 “Linen” stitches (one chain + one double crochet).
  11. Repeat steps 6 – 9.

Would you like to have some visual support in crocheting the Cowl and/or the button holes? You can find that further on in the tutorial.

 

Making the button holes

I made the button holes at the end of the Cowl. It’s smarter to do it at the start. 

  1. Make the button holes in row 4 or 5.
  2. At the start of the row, as usual: chain 2 to turn, double crochet 1, chain 1, double crochet 1.
  3. Now skip the next space underneath the chain. Chain 3, double crochet 1 (instead of chain 1, double crochet 1, chain 1, double crochet 1).
  4. Crochet on until you have 4 sets of (chain 1, double crochet 1) to go this row.
  5. Again skip the next space underneath the chain. Chain 3, double crochet 1. 
  6. Finish the row with 2 times (chain 1, double crochet 1). And 2 chains to turn, of course. 
  7. The next row, work 2 times (chain 1, double crochet 1) into the button hole:
    • Start, as usual, with double crochet 1, chain 1, double crochet 1, chain 1.
    • Work the next double crochet underneath the chains that make the button hole (so into the big space). Then chain 1. 
    • Again work the second double crochet underneath the chains of the button hole (the big space). Again chain 1. 
    • Now you’re past the button hole. Work the next double crochet into the space underneath the chain of the previous row, as usual. 
    • When you’ve arrived at the second button hole, work 2 double crochets into the hole in the same way. 
    • Finish the row with chain 1, double crochet 1, chain 1, double crochet 1, chain 2. 

Crochet on until your work measures approx. 90 cm. Sew on the buttons and weave in the loose ends. 

Would you like to have some visual support in crocheting the Cowl and/or the button holes? You can find that further on in the tutorial.

 

Chapter II

THE BASICS

Before you start

Carefully cut open a skein of yarn and twist it into a ball. Crocheting straight from the skein will quickly result in a sad mess. Besides, twisting the ball will give you a feel for the yarn and its tension. 

Tip: carefully shake the skein loose and hang it onto a chair (or around the hands of a helpful assistant). This makes it easier to pry the yarn loose when winding the ball.

 

Chain stitches (making the base chain)

A chain stitch is a simple loop. Chain stitches are used to make a start with crocheting, by quite literally making a chain of stitches. They are also used at the end of each row, to make a start for the next row.

Pleaste note! It’s important that you don’t crochet the chain too tightly. Better too loose than too tight! 

The first stitch is made the same way as with knitting:

  • Wind the yarn around two fingers. Wind over the two fingers again to the back of the first thread. This makes a “cracknel” shape as shown in the image. You can also shape the yarn this way on the table in front of you.

 

  • Use the hook to pull the back thread through the front one to form a loop:

 

  • Pull gently on the end to shape the first loop:

 

Hold the crochet hook in your right hand and take the yarn (on the ball end, not the loose end) in your left hand. 

  • Wrap the yarn over the hook in an anticlockwise direction. 
  • Draw the yarn through to form a new loop.

crochet chain 1

 

 

  • You have now made a new loop, or “chained one”.  Don’t pull too tightly!

crochet chain 2

 

By repeating these steps, you make a chain of stiches. 

You can count your chain stitches by counting the little “v”s.

For this project, crochet a base chain of 40 stitches.

This is how you count them:

 

 

Double crochet stitches

Please note!  By double crochet stitch I mean the UK term. The US term would be single crochet. If you’re used to US terms, please read “single crochet” where I write double crochet.

The double crochet stitch is one of the basic crochet stitches. The “normal” double crochet stitch is relatively sturdy and stiff. This is how you make a normal double crochet stitch:

  • Insert the hook into the 2nd chain from hook. Wrap the yarn anti-clockwise over the hook. 
  • Then draw the yarn through the stitch:

Please note! This “normal” double crochet stitch is worked into a different chain than when you’re crocheting the Linen Stitch!​

 

  • Again wrap the yarn anti-clockwise around the hook. 
  • Pull the hook with yarn through both loops:

 

 

 

Chapter III

LET'S DO THIS

You have made a base chain of 40 chain stitches. It’s time to start the ‘real’ work.  

 

Crocheting the Linen Stitch

The first double crochet stitch is worked into the 4th chain, including the one on the hook. 

  • Insert the hook into this chain, shown here with the wool needle:

linnen steek haken 1

 

  • Wrap the yarn anti-clockwise around the hook and pull the hook through the chain.

linnen steek haken 2

 

  • Wrap the yarn again, anti-clockwise, around the hook.
  • Pull the yarn through both loops. 

linnen steek haken 3

 

  • You have made a double crochet stitch! It should now look like this:

linnen steek haken 5

 

  • Chain 1 stitch.
  • Skip 1 chain in the base chain.
  • Work the next double crochet stitch into the next chain, shown here with the wool needle:

linnen steek haken 6

 

  • And again chain 1. 
  • Again, skip 1 chain in the base chain. 
  • Work a double crochet stitch into the next stitch, shown here with the wool needle, then chain 1. 

linnen steek haken 7

 

  • Work along the entire base chain this way.
  • Work 1 double crochet, chain 1, skip the next base chain, etc. 
  • At the end of the row, chain 2 to turn. 

linnen steek haken 8

 

Good to know: the first row is always difficult!

It’s quite hard to crochet into the base chain. You may have to wriggle and squirm a bit to get the hook in. This might mean that you’ve chained too tightly, so you could try again and make the chains somewhat bigger. But even then, working into chains is not easy! 

And you also have to pay attention that you’re not twisting the chain round while crocheting… 
Breathe in, breathe out...

So if you’re already fed up with crochet after only just beginning: you’re right! The first row is a bother! 
But fear not, after the first row, things will get much easier! 

 

Now turn the work, so that you’ll be working from right to left again. The working yarn is behind the work. 

From now on, you’ll no longer be working your stitches into the underlying stitch. Instead you’ll be working into the space underneath the chain of the previous row.  In between each two double crochet stitches, there’s a rather big space, because of the chain stitches in between. Into that space, you’ll be hooking. Much easier :)

  • Insert your hook into the space underneath the chain stitch of the previous row. Space is shown here with the wool needle: 

linnen steek haken 9

 

  • Double crochet 1, then chain 1. 
  • Insert your hook into the next space underneath the chain of the previous row. Shown here with the wool needle: 

linnen steek haken 10

 

  • Again double crochet 1, then chain 1.
  • Work along the entire row this way.
  • The very last stitch of this row is worked into the space between the double crochet stitch on the right, and the chains on the left.  (These are the chains of the base chain, that you skipped at the start of row 1.) 

linnen steek haken 11

 

  • Always chain 2 at the end of each row. So now as well:

linnen steek haken 12

 

  • Again turn the work. 
  • The next stitch is again worked into the space underneath the chain of the previous row. Shown here with the wool needle:  

linnen steek haken 13

 

  • Double crochet 1, then chain 1.
  • Work along the entire row this way.
  • The last stitch is worked into the space between the double crochet stitch on the right and the 2 chains on the left: 

linnen steek haken 14

 

This is the basic pattern of the Cowl, this is how you crochet the Linen Stitch. You repeat the double crochet 1, chain 1 pattern. You don’t work your hook into the underlying stitch itself, but into the space underneath the chain.

Important not to forget:

  • Always chain 2 at the end of each row.
  • Work the last double crochet stitch into the space between the underlying double crochet stitch on the right and the chain stitches on the left.  

 

Making the button holes

Make the button holes in row 4 or 5.

As usual, start with double crochet 1, chain 1, double crochet 1. 

  • Skip the next chain-space. Instead of chain 1, double crochet 1, chain 1, now chain 3. 
  • The space that you’ll skip is marked here with the wool needle: 

knoopsgaten haken 1

 

  • So chain 3, skip the next space, double crochet 1 into the chain space after that. The space in which you’ll work the next stitch is shown here with the wool needle:  

knoopsgaten haken 2

 

  • It should now look like this:

knoopsgaten haken 3

 

  • Continue the row with the normal Linen Stitch, so chain 1, double crochet 1, etc. 

When approaching the end of the row, make another button hole. Start when you have 4 more chain-spaces to go.

  • Chain 3, skip 1 chain space, double crochet 1 into the next chain space.

Finally chain 1, double crochet 1, chain 1, double crochet 1 to finish the row. Don’t forget to chain 2 for the next row! 

The next row, you start again with the usual double crochet 1, chain 1, double crochet 1. ​

  • Chain 1. 
  • Work the next double crochet stitch into the large space. (This way you follow the same stitches as 2 rows before. The stitch will be above the stitch marked here with the wool needle.)

knoopsgaten haken 4

 

  • Chain 1. 
  • Again, work the next double crochet stitch into the large space.

knoopsgaten haken 5

 

  • Chain 1.
  • Work the next double crochet stitch into the “normal” chain space next to the button hole. Pointed out here with the wool needle:

 

knoopsgaten haken 6

 

Continue with the regular Linen Stitch pattern (chain 1, double crochet 1) until you have reached the second button hole. 

Work the 2 double crochet stitches into that second button hole in the same way as described above. 

Now you can really get cracking and crochet onwards and upwards in the Linen Stitch pattern! 

 

Switching to a new ball of yarn

Preferably start on a new ball of yarn at the beginning of a row. If you switch halfway, there’s a chance that the knot or yarn ends will remain visible. 

Tie the old yarn to the new, not too tightly, as closely to the patch as you can manage. Crochet on with your new yarn. Don’t worry about the knot, when finishing the Cowl you can re-tie it neatly if necessary. 

Crochet on until your patch measures approx. 90 cm, or until you have reached the desired length.

 

Finishing the Cowl

The only thing left to do, is to weave in the loose ends at the start, finish and halfway. Use the wool needle for this.

  • Check if the knots at the side are neat and small. Probably not, so if necessary untie them and make a new, tight knot as close to the knitting as possible. 
  • Pull one of the loose ends through the eye of the wool needle. Just weave the yarn through the stitches at the edge of the work, following the shape of the stitches as much as possible. You’ll see that the loose ends will become as good as invisible. 
  • Continue this way to finish all the loose ends of yarn.
  • Lastly, sew on the buttons.

 

CONGRATULATIONS! Your Wrapture Cowl is finished and ready to use!

 

Did you enjoy this? I sure hope you did! 

Are you happy? I'll dance a jig!

Do you have suggestions? I'd love to hear them.

Are you unhappy? I'll fix it!

Working on this project, you have practiced important crocheting skills. I am very interested to hear your opinion regarding this project, the yarn and the tutorial. Your feedback helps us to improve. Therefore I would very much appreciate it if you would share your experience in our online guestbook. Of course you can also share your thoughts via hallo @ yarnz . nl  

I’d love to hear from you!

 

 

 

 

Michèle Tewes.

Yarnz. Start Crafting.

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