Spring Medley Shawl crochet pattern

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Spring Medley

shawl crochet pattern


Check out the Spring Medley yarn kit here.


This will be your go-to wrap...



This Shawl is worked in treble stitches (US: double crochet). For this pattern you'll be working:

  • Chain stitches;
  • Treble stitches.

The tutorial of this pattern focuses on beginners. How to crochet these stitches is explained step by step. This project is very suitable to learn how to crochet.

Do you already know how to crochet? Then skip straight to the Quickstart Pattern!


Required materials:



The triangular Shawl will be approx. 195 cm wide and 110 cm long.


CONTENTS / go straight to:

About this project





- Row 1

- Row 2

- Row 3 and onwards


- Switching to a new ball of yarn

- Colour combinations



About this project

This colourful eyecatcher has a supple drape and feels comfortable on the skin. The special blend of cotton & bamboo gives a subtle sheen to the yarn. The handdyed colours add a liveliness to a large project like this, that you won't find with machine dyed yarn.

You'll never want to take this Shawl off ever!

This Shawl looks impressive - which of course it is - but is very easy to crochet.

You'll soon get the hang of the pattern. You're in charge of the colour changes yourself, just finish one ball in a certain colour and change to a new colour. This way you can create your own colour blend.

The pattern has a step-by-step tutorial for beginners. It also has a shorter "quickstart" pattern for those who already know how to crochet.


... endless variation...

I chose these colours, because in my opinion they are nicely balanced. But there are of course many more possibilities! Some ideas for you:

  • Change colour every 2 or 4 rows (or 6 or 8 or ...);
  • Finish 2 balls in one colour before switching to 2 balls of another colour. This way you get 5 larger bands of colour;
  • Choose a 3x3 repeat (then you'll need only 9 balls of Eco-Fusion and your Shawl will be a bit smaller);
  • Take 10 different colours of Eco-Fusion;
  • Or decide on one colour only, with perhaps a final ball of contrasting colour on the edge. 

You can make this Shawl entirely to your own taste. Just order your own choice of Eco-Fusion and use this pattern.

Colour suggestions:

Seashell - Pickled Ginger - Sunglow - Sunkissed Coral - Bordeaux


Vanilla - Mint - Aventurine - Watershed - Ocean


Vanilla - Willow - Coco - Sunglow - Charcoal


Chapter I


Please note: by treble stitch I mean the UK term. The US term would be double crochet. If you’re used to US terms, please read “double crochet” where I write treble.

The basic stitches used for this Shawl consist of a treble 2, chain 1 repeat. You work the trebles into the space underneath the chain of the previous row.

This is the pattern in symbols:

how to crochet triangle granny


Once you've finished a ball of yarn, you switch to a new colour. This way, you create your own colour blend for the Shawl.

Colour sequence: Cornflower – Lavender – Orchid – Watershed – Aventurine. Repeat this sequence.


If you prefer words, I wrote out the pattern:

  1. Crochet a base chain of 8 chain stitches.
  2. Treble 1 into the 4th chain stitch. Chain 1
  3. Skip 1 chain in the base chain and work into the next chain stich: treble 2, chain 2, treble 2, chain 1
  4. Treble 2 into the last chain stitch of the base chain. 
  5. Chain 3 and turn around. 
  6. Treble 1 in between the stitches of the previous row. Chain 1.
  7. Treble 2 into the space underneath the chain stitch of the previous row. Chain 1.
  8. Into the space underneath the next 2 chains of the previous row: treble 2, chain 2, treble 2, chain 1. If you like, you can mark this spot (the center) with a stitch marker. 
  9. Treble 2 into the space underneath the next chain stitch of the previous row. Chain1
  10. Treble 2 in between the treble stitch and chains of the previous row. Chain 3 and turn around. 

Repeat these steps: 

The first and last stitches of each row you work in between the stitches of the previous row. 
Basically you keep repeating (treble 2, chain 1) underneath the chain of the previous row. 
In the center, each time work a treble 2, chain 2, treble 2, chain 1.


Chapter II


A chain stitch is a simple loop. Chain stitches are used to make a start with crocheting, by quite literally making a chain of stitches. They are also used at the end of each row, to make a start for the next row.

Pleaste note! It’s important that you don’t crochet the chain too tightly. Better too loose than too tight! 

The first stitch starts the same way as with knitting:

  • Wind the yarn around 2 fingers and over the 2 fingers again to the back of the first thread, making a “cracknel” shape as shown in the image. 
    You can also shape the yarn this way on the table in front of you.

haken eerste losse maken

  • Use the crochet hook to pull the back thread through the front one to form a loop:

haken eerste losse maken 2


  • Pull gently on the end to shape the first loop:

haken eerste losse maken 3


Hold the crochet hook in your right hand and take the yarn (on the ball end, not the loose end) in your left hand

  • Wrap the yarn over the hook in an anticlockwise direction. Draw the yarn through to form a new loop. 

haken ketting van lossen 1


  • You have now made a new loop, or “chained one”. Don’t pull too tightly!

haken ketting van lossen 2


By repeating these steps, you make a "chain of stiches". 

For some projects, you have to make quite a long chain, because this chain shapes the width or length of the project. 

For this Shawl, you work outwards from the middle. So you need to chain only 8stitches, including the loop on the hook, for the base chain. 

You can count your chain stitches by counting the little “v”s.

This is how you count them:

ketting van lossen

The 8th chain is on the hook.​



Chapter III


Here you’ll find the basic tutorial for a treble stitch (US term: double crochet). Give it a try with a spare piece of yarn, or use some Eco-Fusion to practise and pull out later. 

  • Wrap the yarn anti-clockwise over hook and insert the hook into the stitch on top of which you want the treble. In this case, that is the 4th chain stitch:

treble - 1

Stick the hook underneath the little “v” shape


  • Wrap the yarn over the hook, draw through the chain and wrap the yarn again. Stretched out, it should look like this now: 

    stokje haken 2


  • Draw through the first 2 loops (most left on the image) only. Wrap the yarn again, anti-clockwise, around the hook: 

stokje haken 3


  • Draw through the last 2 loops on the hook. There is now only one loop left on the hook:

stokje haken 4


Congratulations! You have crocheted a treble stitch!​


Good to know: the first row is always difficult! 
It’s quite hard to crochet into the base chain. You may have to wriggle and squirm a bit to get the hook in. This may mean that you’ve chained too tightly, so you could try again and make the chains somewhat bigger. But even then, trebling into chains is not easy! And you also have to pay attention that you’re not twisting the chain round while crocheting… 
Breathe in, breathe out...

So if you’re already fed up with crochet after only just beginning: you’re right! The first row is a bother! 
But fear not, after the first row, things will get much easier! 


Chapter IV


Some patterns require that you alternate a lot between all kinds of stitches. For this Shawl, you only have to crochet chain stitches and treble stitches. 

The start will be fiddly work, and you also need to learn the logic of working in a triangle. Just have faith, you’ll soon have the feel of it. Before you know it, your fingers will make the movements quicker than your brain can follow! 


Row 1

  • Start with Eco-Fusion Cornflower
  • Make a base chain of 8 chain stitches:

ketting van lossen


  • The first treble stitch should be worked into the 4th chain stitch, including the one on the hook. This stitch is marked here with the wool needle:

haken driehoek Shawl

Make sure you insert the hook underneath the “v”shape.​


  • Work a treble stitch into this 4th chain. It should then look like this: 

haken driehoek Shawl



  • After the treble stitch, immediately crochet a chain stitch. This chain doesn’t go “into” or “underneath” anything, it’s just an extra loop after the treble stitch. You make this chain stitch in the same way as you do when crocheting the base chain. 


  • In the base chain, now skip one chain stitch next to your new treble stitch. The chain into which the next treble should be worked is marked here with a wool needle. If you’d count from the start, it would be the 3rd chain stitch:

haken driehoek Shawl



Into this chain stitch, described above as nr. 3, you’re going to work 4 treble stitches:

  • Work 2 treble stitches into chain nr. 3.
  • Then make 2 chain stitches.
  • After that again work 2 trebles into this same chain nr. 3.
  • It should now look like this:

haken driehoek Shawl



Can you recognize the stitches?

haken driehoek Shawl


  • Before you continue, again make 1 chain stitch.​

  • Again skip a chain stitch in the base chain. 
    The last 2 trebles of this row are worked into the very last (or very first) chain stitch of the base chain. Marked here with the wool needle:

haken driehoek Shawl


  • Work 2 trebles into that last chain stitch. 


  • It should now look like this:

haken driehoek shawl

You have crocheted from right to left.


Row 2

  • Crochet 3 chain stitches (short: chain 3) and turn the patch around. You'll be working from right to left again. The yarn should be at the back. 


  • Work the first treble of the next row into the space in between the stitches underneath. That’s in between the 3 chains on the right and the treble stitch on the left. The space is marked here with the wool needle:

haken driehoek Shawl


  • It should now look like this:

haken driehoek Shawl


  • Again chain 1 before you continue.

  • The next 2 trebles are worked into the space underneath the chain stitch of the previous row. This space is marked here with an arrow. That’s right, a nice big hole. No more fiddly work. 

haken driehoek Shawl

Treble 2 into this space and then chain 1.


  • You’ve arrived at the center of the Shawl. In this middle space you always work 2 trebles, 2 chains, 2 trebles.  Again, you work them into the space underneath the chains of the previous row. 

haken driehoek Shawl


  • It should then look like this:

haken driehoek Shawl

It may be convenient to mark this point, the middle of the triangle, with a stitchmarker. Or a paperclip, a piece of rope, anything as long as it’s not too heavy. 
This way you won’t mistake the middle when your Shawl gets bigger.


  • Chain 1.

  • Work 2 trebles into the next space underneath the chain of the previous row. 

haken driehoek Shawl


  • And again, chain 1.


  • The very last 2 trebles of each row too should be worked in between the stitches of the previous row. That’s in between the treble on the right and the chains on the left. Marked here with the wool needle: 

haken driehoek Shawl


  • Treble 2 into this space. It should then look like this:

haken driehoek Shawl


Row 3 and onwards

At the end of each row you always chain 3 and turn the patch around. 

These 3 chain stitches count as a first treble of the new row. They allow you space to continue onwards and upwards.

  • Chain 3 and turn the patch around. You’re crocheting from right to left again. 
  • You keep crocheting on in the same way as row 2. 
    1. Work the first treble stitch into the space in between the 3 chains and the treble of the previous row. 
    2. Chain 1.
    3. Treble 2 into the space underneath the chain stitch of the previous row.
    4. Chain 1.
    5. Again, treble 2 into the space underneath the chain stitch of the previous row. 
    6. Chain 1.
    7. Arriving at the center: treble 2, chain 2, treble 2, chain 1
    8. Treble 2 into the space underneath the chain stitch of the previous row. 
    9. Chain 1.
    10. Again treble 2 into the space underneath the chain stitch of the previous row. 
    11. Chain 1.
    12. Arriving at the end of the row: work the last 2 trebles in between the treble and the 3 chains of the previous row.
    13. Chain 3 and turn the patch around.

Continue this way.

Each row adds 2 “chain spaces”, one on each side of the Shawl. Each row you’re working more repeats of the (treble 2, chain 1) basis. The start, middle and end of each row stay the same. 

Crochet on until your first ball of Eco-Fusion is almost used up.


Chapter V


The general rule is: don’t switch balls halfway through a row. If you do, loose threads, knots or colour changes will be visible on the finished item.

When working on this Shawl, each row is longer than the last. So at some point, there will be a lot of left over yarn that you cannot use, because it will most probably be just not enough for an entire row.

So I broke the rule. I did start on a new ball halfway through the row. More than once. Consequences were that I had to weave in the loose ends very precisely. And indeed, here and there it is visible. I don’t mind. For your Shawl, it’s up to you!


Switching to a new ball of yarn

Tie the old yarn to the new, not too tightly, as closely to the patch as you can manage. Crochet on with your new yarn. Don’t worry about the knot, when Finishing the Shawl you can retie it neatly if necessary. 


Colour combinations

The fun thing of this Shawl is, that you create your own colour blend as you crochet along. This may sound complicated, but it's very ease!

Once you've finished a ball of Eco-Fusion, you switch not only to a new ball, but to a different colour.  Finish that ball, and switch to a new colour again. And so on.

As the Shaw gets bigger, you need more yarn to complete a row. Logically, you can crochet less rows with one colour and the bands of colour will get thinner. 

The colour sequence for the Shawl is:

  • 1 ball of Cornflower
  • 1 ball of Lavender
  • 1 ball of Orchid
  • 1 ball of Watershed
  • 1 ball of Aventurine

After Aventurine, repeat this colour sequence once more. 

I chose this sequence with these colours, because in my opinion they're very well balanced like this. Naturally, you can do whatever you like. Play with colour! Follow a different sequence, or use different colours altogether. Make the Shawl larger or smaller. Follow a sequence of 3 x 3 colours instead of 2 x 5... The possibilities are endless!

With this easy pattern you can make lots of Shawls, based on the same pattern, but looking quite different! 


Chapter VI


Once you’re done with crocheting, your homemade Shawl is nearly finished. 

After the last stich, pull a bit on the loop which is still on your hook to make it a bit bigger and take out the hook. Pull the yarn through the loop and pull gently. 

If necessary, cut the loose ends of yarn to approx. 10 cm. Retie the knots so that they’re snug against your Shawl.

Weave in these loose ends with the wool needle. Follow the shape of the stitches as much as possible.

You might want to block your Shawl between 2 damp towels. This “settles” the stitches and allows you to stretch the Shawl into a neater and bigger shape. To do this, shape your Shawl onto a clean, damp towel and place another damp towel on top. Dry flat. 

CONGRATULATIONS! Your Shawl is finished and ready to use!


Did you enjoy this? I sure hope you did! 

Are you happy? I'll dance a jig!

Do you have suggestions? I'd love to hear them.

Are you unhappy? I'll fix it!

Working on this project, you have practiced important crochet skills. I am very interested to hear your opinion regarding this project, the yarn and the tutorial. Your feedback helps us to improve. Therefore I would very much appreciate it if you would share your experience in our online guestbook. Of course you can also share your thoughts via hallo @ yarnz . nl  

I’d love to hear from you!





Michèle Tewes.

Yarnz. Start Crafting.


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